Trousers and method of forming same



May 4, 1937. i D. M. DEAN TROUSERS AND METHOD OF FORMING SAME Filed Oct. 18, 1955 l 0 0 0Q0 0 00 0 0 0 0 0 Q0 i 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0v 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 p/1W0 M. 001;

A RNEY.

Patented May 4, 1937 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE TROUSERS AND METHOD OF FORMING SAME David M. Dean, Detroit, Mich.

Application October 18, 1935, Serial No. 45,628

4 Claims. (Cl. 2-227) This invention relates to wearing apparel and tion and wrinkling of the material when the has particular reference to a method of drafting wearer is sitting will be appreciably reduced and and manufacturing trousers. An object of the the trousers will hold a press longer.

invention is the provision of an article of the na- Another advantageous feature of my method 5 ture referred to, which has an elastic section in resides in the saving of material efiected by the 5 the back stride. new drafting outline, especially in the manufac- The present method of manufacturing trousers ture of riding breeches and the like. This savand overalls is based upon exact scientific studies ing will offset the expense of adding my imwhich I do not propose to discard in my new provement.

method. I merely add to and improve the old A further object of the invention is the incor- 10 method. Trousers are generally cut to the reporation of my improvement in the general sysquirements necessary to create a well fitting tem of trouser drafting and manufacture without garment when the wearer is standing. In a sitmaterially changing said system. ting position, however, the natural expansion of Another object of the invention is the provision the seat and thigh causes a constriction at the of a method adaptable to all kinds of materials 15 front waist line and a pronounced pull at the and textures, and to all types of trousers. back waistline and at the stride. Two things are A still further object of the invention is the usually done in an attempt to lessen this unforreduction of the cost and labor necessary in maktunate condition. In the drafting operation, suring alterations.

plus material is provided in the back stride to Other objects and advantages of the invention 20 permit sitting and stooping; and to give the will appear as the description proceeds. trousers a smooth hanging appearance when in a The invention resides in the improved constanding position, steam and hot irons are apstruction of trousers, and in the combination and plied to the back stride to stretch it into shape. arrangement of parts, the novelty of which will This, however, removes all elasticity from the be particularly pointed out and distinctly claimed 25 material at the points which receive the greatest hereinafter.

& strain when the wearer is sitting and stooping. In the accompanying drawing, which consti- Since the waist line of the trouser is fastened tutes part of my disclosure, I have fully and close to the body above the hip bone, a sitting clearly illustrated a preferred embodiment of the position results in discomfort and agony for the invention, in which drawing: 30 wearer, and in a breaking down of the material Fig. 1 is a side elevation of the rear half of a i in the back stride due to the excess strain at that trouser leg, and illustrates my improvement in point. This premature wear in the back stride the back stride. considerably shortens the life of the garment. Fig. 2 is a smaller side elevation of the rear Another disadvantage of the present method is pattern of a trouser leg for incorporating my im- 35 that sitting and stooping movements cause the provement, and shows the saving of material knees to bag soon after pressing, due to the efiected thereby. strains and distortions produced in the material. Fig. 3 is an enlarged fragmentary plan view of I p p to eliminate t above mentioned the seam between two pieces of material embody- 40 advantages, and others, by my new method of m my improvement, for example, at the back 40 drafting and manufacturing trousers. stride f trousers.

I One of the principal objects of my invention is Fig 4 is a cross section taken on line 4 4 f to manufacture trousers which will be comfort- Fig 3 able to Wear, both in standing and sitting Referring now more particularly to the drawpositions.

' h f of e Another object of the invention is to prolong 1 Illustrates the rear a1 trons r leg, ready to be sewed to the other pieces (not ti d? e at irfti ifi itfi aiif iiit iii shown) which a finished e of wearing quality will make it unnecessary to purem The portlon 7 of mateflal 8 15 generajny chase two pairs of trousers with each suit, thereknown as the back finde, and 15 the part wlillch 5 by effecting a large saving. receives severe strain when the wearer 1s in a An advantageous feature of the invention re- Sitting Stooping DOSitiOII- D' D to p ov sides in the improved appearance of the trousers, the construction of the back stride l to enable it for the reason that they will conform to the body to give or stretch with the bending of the body,

lines and will hang better. The customary distorat the same time maintaining a perfect fit when 55 the wearer is standing. This I prefer to accomplish by the means to be hereinafter described.

The pattern is so cut as to provide an excess of material in the back stride 1, as indicated by the dotted lines 9 (Fig. 1). A resilient member H], which may be a strip of rubber or any other suitable material, is stretched a predetermined amount from its normal position and sewed in its elongated form along the back stride 'l.

The member ID is positioned a slight distance back from the edge of the material 8, forming a narrow strip of cloth I l which may be used asa hem when the various piecesof the trousers are stitched together. When the tension which has been placed on the resilient member ID during the sewing operation is released, the member ID resumes its normal length, pulling the cloth in the back stride l with it. The back stride 1 is now in the form indicated by the numeral I2, in which position it is pressed into a smooth shape by a'pressing machine or any other suitable means.

In outward appearance to the naked eye the material in the back stride I is the same as the material 8 in the rest of the garment. Actually, however, the strands of thread are closer together, that is; the pores in the weave are compressed into smaller form. It is easily seen, that the material is not harmed in any way.

In its normal form the back stride 1 is correctly proportioned to fit perfectly when the wearer is standing. In a sitting position, however, the resilient member stretches to accommodate the enlarged seat and thighs and again fits the wearer perfectly, without discomfort to him. The material in the back stride 1 also stretches with the member II], but because of its previously compressed state it does so without strain or wear of the fibers.

The many advantages of my improved trouser construction are readily seen from, the above description and the drawing referred to.

I do not wish to limit my invention to any particular pattern of the material or to a particular position of the resilient member In, it being within the contemplation of the disclosure to vary the draft and the disposition of the resilient strip as desired by the designer. Likewise, the size of the resilient member and the amount of stretch incorporated therein, may

vary with the material used and the type of garment.

One possible and preferred means of applying my method is shown in Fig. 2 and hereinafter described. By proper manipulation of the back pattern of trousers a surplus of material may be obtained in the back stride and later pulled into a compressed form by a resilient member, as described above.

In Fig.2, line I3 is the center line of the back pattern, It the waist line, l5 the seat measurement line, It the crotch draft line and I! the seat draft line. Proper manipulation of the pattern gives a back stride l8-l9 which contains a surplus of material as compared to the back stride 2il-2i of the old pattern, the latter being shown in dotted lines. This surplus material is only needed in a sitting or stooping position and for a normal standing position is taken up by an elastic strip placed along the back stride, as hereinabove described with particular reference to Fig. 1. A study of Fig. 2 will show how a large amount of material may be saved by drafting the back pattern to adapt it to my improvement in the back stride.

In present practice it is necessary to cut the portion above line I! (Fig. 2) on the bias, in order to give sufficient room when the wearer is walking, sitting or stooping, and still maintain the weave line of the fabric parallel with the crease line I3. In my method it is not necessary to cut the material at so'acute an angle, therefore, I effect a saving of material as defined by the dotted line [3a.

The only change in the process of manufacturing'trousers necessary to embody my improvement therein is the insertion of an elongated resilient member along the back stride and the pressing of the material in the aforesaid back stride. The back pieces of the trousers are then stitched together as in the conventional method. A fragmentary view of such a seam is shown in Figs. 3 and 4; wherein the pieces 8 and 8G, to which the resilient members I 0 are fastened, are brought together and stitched at the seam 22. The pieces 8 and 8a are turned over the resilient strips I0 and hemmed as at 23 (Fig. 4).

It is also within the contemplation of the invention to apply my novel combination of an elastic member and a compressed material to other uses, such as seams in other garments, etc.

Although I have herein disclosed a certain embodiment of the invention, it will be understood that various modifications may be employed, without violating the spirit of the invention, for example, in some instances, I will weaveelastic threads into the fabric along the stride, all of which is intended to be within the scope of the appended claims.

Having described my invention, whatI and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. The combination with a garment having leg portions consisting of front and back sections, there being an excess of material in said back section, of a narrow elastic member secured adjacent to and parallel with the edges of the stride portion of said back section.

2. In a garment having leg portions made of front and back sections, the latter being formed with an excess of material in the stride portion, the combination of a strip of elastic material, secured within a hem adjacent to and parallel with the edges of the stride portion of said back section.

3. The method of making a garment having leg portions which consists of forming front and back sections according to a. predetermined pattern, allowing an excess of material along the stride portion of each back section, securing predetermined pattern, by securing along 'the' edges of said stride, elastic members while the latter are in extended formation, and then securing together the longitudinal edges of said front and back sections.

DAVID M. DEAN.

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